|Hungarian 16-17th C. Military and Civilian
Fashions Costume uniform 1600
|Polish Military and Men's Dress|
on top, a short kopieniak, 1566 Right, Hungarian colpak of fur.
Quoting Martina Hribová, PhD. POZNÁMKY K MADGARSKÉMU OBLECENÍ V 9.- 17.STOL http://www.kostym.cz/Cesky/4_Odivani/madari.pdf (Czech)
In the 16th C. on, townswomen and peasants wore aprons over shifts and skirts (catrinte, fota, and vilnic) in addition to shawls or mantles (csucha).
Kabats or dolmans, mid 15th C.
In 16th- 17 century nobleman and their minions dressed colorfully in light blue , saffron, green, red. Men wore jacket 'dolman' often decorated with embroidery of silver or gold thread.
Peasants typically wore a simple outerwear of (usually sheep) skin unsheared , however this was very durable and effective against foul weather. Herdsman and other peasants for footwear was typically constructed of one part leather that came to a point (gurgui ) or round-toed slipper-like shoes (kapca ), characteristic cloth -fustian and linen (fusta and linje ) and wool (icar ) or linen cullots or nickers (“izmene” ).
Carpathian areas of Wallachia and Transylvania , as well as eastern parts of Moldavia and Bessarabie, had many variants for coats and jackets. Some were out of sheepskin fur as vests (burnuz and keptar ) or the same with sleeves (burke, gube ) out of stout felt (szur ), or out of thick wool (habanitsa) or shaggy frieze wool cloth (guba ). With respect to severe winters within carpathian areas men typically wore a heavy wool mantle (gugla ) with additional garments. One item universally associated with the Hungarian warrior is a wool overcoat, lined with welted leather or fur in winter. Wool coats were of several cuts , several shapes of sleeves , and went by various names (contesul, contos, chintes, chintus, kontesh, kontos, suba). However wool might make practical & functional as well as rich fabrics , the latter of which were made garments including czamara, delia, fereaua, feiageaua (frezya) , mantaua, suba which graced wealthier men. These items in general were worn with other garments like for example with typical caftans (caftanul , habanitsa ) or garments out of richly decorated expensive fabrics ( pancar (pants), szoknya, dolman, mente , guibeaua).
headdress was a wrapped or shapped bonnet or coif (kapuriac, merame/neframe)
or even stiffened with layers of felt or wood and decorated in trim, beads
or embroidery (krype, parta).
( soldiers of Stephan Báthory of Transylvania ), are also seen in
kaftans or within dolmans underneath caftans with short sleeves , both
reaching about knees or folded up to expose the knees (to make walking
easier). These typically had small flat caps.
soldiers had similar garments, differing solely in the greater width of
the collar of the dolman laying over the outer caftan and also with a
characteristic highly tapered fur cap.
16th C Paintings we can see typical national garments from1520s
king Lájose Hungary and Mary Habsburg , within whom there is noticeable
influence of Western European fashion.
Fig 10. The
King wears a garment made of gold floral brocade. Around his neck is 10 cm
high standing collar and underneath shoulders is attached long sleeves.
Under this is a linen shirt of fine and distinct cut and delicate silver
embroidery of the stock and sleeves.
11. The Queen’s garment is of a green silk damask. Much particularly
version si můžete read over (5), alike like run over minutiae. After
battle of Moháč in 1526 eastern part of Hungary
fell within the Ottoman empire.
Now fresco kirk under Wallachia and Moldávii scheme Turk
within kaftan with turban. Nepřekvapí nor deed , that come down
garments out of then dob are manufactured article out of fulmination
ottoman manufactured article Aristocratic wear within vacation segments
Hungary within rudiment 16. century were natured Germany Italian stylish
elementary ( skin šuby , net wimples By sequel si however a-major vogue
capture turkey elementary (fastened within šubách turban sheet Greek 12
13 heads _, valuable on which were finished in a traditional way.
In 16th- 17th century nobleman as
well as their retainers wore blue , saffron, green , and red. Men wore a
coat (dolman ) with sleeves which had a slit so that the arms and hands
can be out in warm weather and covered in cold.
Fig 12 Often as well the coat (dolman ) had pleated sleeves , through which one could see a decorated shirt with needlework of silver and gold thread. Underneath this shirt there may be a plain undecorated undershirt. Often ornamentation included lace. Overcoat was often the mente. Shirts were often decorated with needlework and various ornamentation as well as lace. On the outside, a Mente jacket.
Fig 15. This garment was by tradition worn by Gábor Bethlen for his wedding. A mente out of Italian velvet embroidered with Silver and gold needlework. Within mantle as well as jacket was sewn rich decorations of silk twine to serve for fasteners (passamentre buttons). Additional adornment of rich semi-precious stone or silver studs.
Fig 14 Eastern style hat colpak or "suveg“ with feather of mostly eagle or heron.
Belts were adorned with silver inlaid leather waistband or net-like out of cord. Due to Turkish influence men wore boots with high knees. Called 'Čižmy' these were also worn by women and youths Color was in general bright red or saffron. Spurs were worn with boots.
Common people wore krpce, (soft slipper-like shoes).
Wigs were not adopted as they generally were within western Europe. Men wore mustaches.
the 16th century ladies' saty
(dresses) were made out of rich embroidered silk fabric or out of
embroidered velvet paisley with silver or gold thread. Ladies wore
garments fastened at the neck
and what as well as within range , when European fashion was to hide décolleté.
Hungarian married women wore indoors gathered gowns of silk or local style pinafore (apron-like outer garment) , with
which might , however did not have to subsist attachments high share ,
which was actually bodice without sleeves , held together with cords. (that is, the edges of the saty were connected by a
cord, revealing a characteristic ‘V’ of the underlying shirt, coming
to a point and meeting at the waist.) Underneath the bodice one sees an
outerwear shirt (that is, a ‘soft’ garment intended to be worn
visibly, rather than the more typical soft garments which are underwear)
with voluminous gathers, and richly decorated sleeves and collars.
Underneath the shirt was a subsequent underwear shirt.
was underneath dress and so not much seen. In 16th century wore shoes
with wooden internal structure and built-up heel.
In the 17th
century high wooden heels and wide boots were popular. Unmarried maidens wore hair wrapped in
rich decoration in a style called "párta“ –
this time, the typical Hungarian man’s dress consisted of dolmán ( well
lined coat ), coat with short sleeves , ornamented sleeves of shirt ,
tight cullotes (breeches) with buttons on legs , tight cullotes similar to
hose, shoes , mente (jacket) cape
of skin out of tiger , leopard or wolf , fur
cap with rosette and feathers
Substantive elements of female fashion were : under the overcoat a shirt with gathered sleeves ( embroidered or decorated with beads ), nicely lined, usually decorated waistcoat , long gathered skirts with lace or velvety piping and pinafore also decorated with lace or needlework. Women also wore mantles , fur jackets and richly decorated bonnets. Girls uncovered their hair, however had it bound in a ‘párta’ headdress. Lower and higher stratum societies wore similar clothing , variance was within quality of fabrics and workmanship. Much attention was given to presentation of harmonious adornment. Black was for the Hungarians mostly reserved for mourning clothing, brighter colors were the fashion for ladies clothing.
Generalizing from available evidence....
in Paintings in museums make it is clear that Hungarians tended toward
fitness and slim build. Hungarians invested their military man-at-arms
with great importance, respecting his protection, justice and purity.
information may be gleaned from the images of the Magyar princes Torténete
Nemes Nagy and Tompos (1). 19 20 21 22 23 24
1600, note camp in background
Hungarian Prince 1660
Dress of Hungarian nobleman, red top over blue zupon with narrow arms.
1648 Hungarian Townswoman
Hungarian Miner 17th C
Court female dress, 1672
See also pictures of Croatian and Hungarian in the photos section of the Yahoo Group "Croatian History"