Ottoman Costume Men's Patterns
Notes from the Style and Status Exhibition at the Sackler Gallery, Smithsonian
and other sources
Skip to Janissary Uniform
Janissary Uniform Dress
The Janissary Uniform . The coat – doloman 82nd Orta
The wool coat is buttoned through the fabric (unlike all the other kaftans on this page, and like modern coats) left breast over right. (that is, the buttons pass through buttonholes on the left breast.)
The tail should be a few inches longer than the front, and should reach 8-12 inches below the knee to mid-calf. Total length of front is (4-8 inches) below the knees.
The sleeves are usually and 3-4 inches to long and loose and so appear are somewhat 'puffy', but sometimes they narrow a little at the forearm. The cuff and 'dog ear' - triangular shaped - is normally rolled back to show as a chevron. Sometimes there is no 'dog ear'. The lining (if any) is typically but not always the same or similar color as the shell. The facing on the collar/lapel is sometimes of a contrasting color or black.
(It is possible that some coats were right over left, and that the buttons were attached to loops. Some evidence is ambiguous.)
The cut is fairly uniform within a unit, but Color is not!
Fitting notes: the square cut works without adjustment for a youth or slim man since the body approximates even volume from shoulder to hips. However, heavier builds require adjustment to avoid excess shoulder width. This is accomplished by angling up inward from the base of the arm, or by cutting out a few inches from the arm up.
The shirt would likely have been a long plain white loose, gusseted, linen shirt. Button at neck. Possibly embroidered.
The overcoat is similar to the coat illustrated . The sleeves could be short or long, and skirt likewise. The sleeves are either permanently attached at the back only, and tied together behind the back, or are fully detachable. sometimes the coat is short sleeved. Length of skirt is 7-9 inches below the knee length - typical and practical. This garment is somewhat optional but usual. There is evidence from pictures that this coat was not worn at certain times, either fatigue use or because of summer heat.
Pants were narrow or baggy following a Turkish cut.
Ottoman Janissary Headgear
Ottoman Woman's clothing
Ottoman Men's Clothing