How to make a Kontuz or Dragoon’s Coat – skimpy instructions.

(c) 2001 rick orli

Home - to Polish Lithuanian Commonwealth 17th C.

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Material should be wool, a fairly soft fulled material. (Zupans can be made out of thin or thick materials, wool, silk, linen… many options.)

The pattern has to be adjusted for size. This is not a totally simple process, since simple proportional change does not always work. Sometimes, you have to lengthen without making wider, or change the chest size without changing the neck.

Traditional test of a pattern is to make a coat out of muslin, to test fit. You can also ‘pin fit’ the pattern pieces to a shirt or sweater you are wearing.   Testing is not optional, if you are using a pattern I gave you or you took from our web site!

 

The order I followed was

1) put in interfacing ( shoulder and breast). The figure illustrates the interface pattern.SewInterface.jpg (27231 bytes)

2) hem front of the front panels. Generally, I hemmed by doing a construction press (Iron with a lot of heat, pressure, and moisture) to set the shape, and sometimes tacked the hem down with a bit of fusing, finished with cat stitches (look like a row of Xs).

3) attach the two front panels and back panels at top of shoulder.

3a) reinforce with hand stitching

4) attach sides,

5) put in the 'triangle'... the top part I hand stitched, rest machine

6) stitch sleeve bottom seam

7) hem sleeves (open part above elbow) and press cuffs.  stitch the elbow to cuff line.  finish cuff and attach the over wrist flap, which was pre-hemmed.

8) run 2 parallel lines of hand stitches along the sleeve top, and pull them in until the sleeve size matched the arm hole size.

9) Attach sleeve.

10) Stitch lining, like as if it were a shirt with the hems out. The figure illustrates a lining pattern.Sewlining.jpg (24785 bytes)

11) Hand stitch the lining in place.

12) Make and attach the passamentre buttons/loops (zupans generally have regular buttons.)

After every line of stitching, I did a 'construction press' (iron) to make the area flat /shaped.